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A

Acne Conglobata: This is a relatively rare
form of acne vulgaris but it is extremely disfiguring and can
cause severe psychological as well as physical suffering. Large
lesions form on the face, chest, back, buttocks, upper arms,
and thighs and can be accompanied by numerous blackheads. It
causes damage to the skin and permanent scarring. It is more
common in males than females.

Acne Cosmetica (aka pomade acne): Occurs when
pomade blocks pores and acne develops on the scalp, forehead and/or
temples—places where pomade comes into contact with the skin. It
is more common among black women who use oil styling pomade in
their hair.

Acne Fulminans: This is an extreme and sudden
appearance of Acne Conglobata accompanied with a fever and
aching of the joints. It is usually treated with oral steroids.

Acne Mechanica: This form of acne develops in
response to heat, covered skin, constant pressure, and/or repetitive
friction against the skin. This form of acne can become more prevalent
in the winter because of hats, scarves and coat collars that may
be in contact with the skin.

Acne Vulgaris: Acne Vulgaris is the medical
term for common acne, which is characterized by the presence
of one or more of the following: blackheads, whiteheads, papules
and pustules.

Actinic Keratoses: Thick wart-like, rough,
reddish patches of skin.

Androgenic: Referring to the hormones that
stimulate the sebaceous glands to create sebum.

Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHAs): Glycolic, lactic,
or fruit acids are the mildest types of the peel formulas. These
types of light peels provide smoother and brighter-looking skin
without the inconvenience of a recovery period. Alpha Hydroxy Acid
peels are also effective in treating fine wrinkling, areas of dryness,
uneven pigmentation and acne.

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA): This
antioxidant penetrates your skin cell membranes and neutralizes
free radicals. Alpha Lipoic Acid will also increase the effectiveness
of topical vitamins C and E (which are also antioxidants).

Antimicrobial: Medication that kills or
eliminates microorganisms. In some cases, a dermatologist may
prescribe antimicrobial formulas to cleanse acne-prone skin.

Autologous Fat Transplantation: Medical description
to designate injectable fat fillers.

Antioxidants: They are particularly powerful
because they protect the extra cellular matrix of the dermis
where wrinkles start.

Ascorbic Acid: A derivative of vitamin C
that has been mixed with water. When vitamin C is mixed with
water, it only allows for a four-month shelf life once you’ve
opened the bottle before it starts oxidizing.

B

Benzoyl Peroxide: An acne medication which
has a tendency to be very drying and may irritate the skin
and may prolong post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on darker
complexions.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (aka Salicylic Acid): This
organic acid has been used for years to treat acne. It is also
used in skin exfoliation to help the reduction of wrinkles
when used regularly.

Blackheads: Blackheads occur in partially
blocked pores. Sebum (the substance which causes oily skin),
dead cells, and bacteria slowly rise to the surface of the
skin and the black colour is caused by the pigments in the
skin being exposed to air.

Blackheads can take a long time to clear up. They are non-inflammatory
acne lesions that are filled with excess oil and dead skin
cells. Blackheads are also called “open comedones” because
the surface of the skin remains open. Blackheads turn black
because the fatty acids and melanin present in the sebum oxidize
in presence of air.

Botox ®: This dermal filler is injected to “relax” the
small muscles and thus eliminate fixed expression lines such
as frown lines and marionette lines.

C

Chloracne: Rash characterized by many comedones
that develops from exposure to chlorinated chemicals or herbicides.

Closed Comedo: aka whitehead. This is a non-inflammatory
comedo with a white centre.

Coenzyme Q-10: This nutrient improves skin’s
ability to fight wrinkles and has been particularly effective
at reducing fine wrinkles around the eyes.

Collagen: Collagen is a naturally occurring
protein that provides support to the skin and various parts
of the human body.

Comedo (plural: comedones): An acne lesion.

Comedogenic: Likely to cause comedones.

Cosmeceutical: Pharmaceutical graded and
tested anti-aging skincare usually sold at medical spas or
at cosmetic dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ clinics.

Copper peptides: This nutrient stimulates
production of collagen and may enhance the action of antioxidants.

Cysts: Cysts are similar to nodules, but
they are filled with pus. They are fairly painful and likely
to scar if untreated by a dermatologist.

D

Dermatitis: This condition occurs due to
an inflammation of the skin caused by an allergic reaction
or contact with an irritant. Typical symptoms of dermatitis
include redness and itching.

Dermabrasion: Dermabrasion is an anti-aging
treatment where surgical scraping is used to help refinish
the skin’s top layers.

Dermatologic Surgery: Refers to a medical
diagnosis and treatment of cosmetic conditions of the skin
by various surgical, reconstructive, cosmetic and non-surgical
methods. These methods include: laser surgery and chemical
surgery. Dermatologic surgery repairs and improves the function
and cosmetic appearance of skin tissue.

Dermis: The middle layer of
the skin, the dermis is a fairly complex combination of hair
follicles, blood vessels and oil glands (aka sebaceous glands).
The dermis is where you’ll find collagen and elastin. When
collagen and elastin are lacking in the dermis, wrinkles occur.

E

Elastin: Elastin occurs naturally in the
skin, giving it strength and elasticity. In other words, it’s
the substance that enables skin to snap back into place.

Emu oil: Oils used in the cosmetic industry
extracted from a largeflightless Australian bird, much like
the ostrich. Emu oil is known for it’s healing capacities and
for the fact that it penetrates deeply into the skin. Although
a large variety of emu oil is available on the Canadian market
are animal base, some can have a synthetic base.

Epidermis: The top layer of the skin.

F

Free Radicals: Highly reactive molecules
that attack cells, which results in damaging skin’s collagen
and elastin. External free radicals are commonly triggered
by pollution, sun and smoke. Internal free radicals are triggered
by stress and our body’s own processes.

Follicle: The tiny shaft in the skin through
which a hair grows, and sebum is excreted from sebaceous glands
to the surface of the skin.

G

Gamma Linolenic Acid: This is an omega-6
essential fatty acid found primarily in vegetable oils. In
anti-aging products, Gamma Linolenic Acid has the purpose of
plumping up tired-looking skin and protecting the skins’ barrier
functions.

Glycolics (or Glycolic Peels): Acids applied
to the skin to to slough away the upper layer of dead skin
cells as well as penetrate into the upper layers of the dermis
to soften fine lines, promote a rosy glow, encourage better
penetration of moisturizers and other anti-aging products.
These acids will also dry up an acne flare-up. There is no
post-treatment downtime associated with a glycolic peel.

Gram Negative Folliculitis: Skin condition
that may be caused by long-term treatment of acne with antibiotics.
It is a bacterial infection that causes pustules and cysts.

Growth factors: Growth Factors are naturally occurring
hormones found in plants and animals which act like a messenger
between cells in the body. Growth Factors work on maintaining your
skin’s youthful appearance because they help to reduce wrinkles
by helping skin retain moisture and by stimulating the production
of collagen.

H

Hyaluronic Acid: One of the natural moisturizer
factors found in skin which decreases with age. When a synthetic
form of hyaluronic acid is added to anti-aging products, the
purpose is to help seal and bind moisture to the skin.

Hydroquinone: aka a de-pigmenting agent used to
reduce age, liver or sun spots; and other discolorations. Hydroquinone
is often used in many African countries as a de-pigmenting cream
(bleaching cream) to lighten the complexion. This product is considered
by many doctors as cancerous.

Hydroxy Acids: aka Alpha Hydroxy Acids. These
acids are used as exfoliants to improve the look of deeper
lines and wrinkles while increasing skin hydration. In reality,
these acids stimulate collagen production.

Hyperpigmentation: This condition is caused
by excessive melanin production in the skin. Darker skins tend
to be more susceptible to hyperpigmentation than fairer complexions.
However, hyperpigmentation can become an anti-aging concern
for certain fairer complexions.

Hypopigmentation: This condition is caused
by the decrease of melanin production in skin.

I

Inflammatory: A word that means “causing
inflammation.” The word is often associated with acne.
“Inflammatory” is usually used to describe lesions that
are inflamed by chemical reactions or bacteria in clogged follicles.

Isotretinoin: Very potent medication used
to treat severe forms of acne, under the supervision of a dermatologist.

Injectable Collagen Fillers: Collagen is injected
in the skin and used primarily to fill wrinkles, lines and scars
on the face and sometimes the neck, back and chest.

Injectable Fat Fillers: A patient’s fat is
injected in the skin and used primarily to fill

wrinkles, lines and scars on the face and sometimes the neck,
back and chest.

J

Jessner’s Solution: Deeper and more aggressive
peeling solution used to treat pigmentation, acne, acne scarring
and other skin irregularities. This form of peeling may cause
redness and swelling.

K

Keloid: This condition is best described
as a large raised scar that spreads beyond the size of the
original wound. Keloid is a common problem for darker complexions.

L

Lipids: Oily substances that include things
like fats, oils and waxes. Sebum is made up of lipids.

Laser Resurfacing: Laser resurfacing rejuvenates
the skin one layer at a time. During the procedure, a laser
is used to remove areas of damaged or wrinkled skin, layer
by layer.

M

Macule: A flat spot or patch of skin that
is not the same colour as the surrounding skin.

Medical Spa: A medical spa is a facility
that operates under the full-time, on-site supervision of a
licensed health care professional (cosmetic surgeon, plastic
surgeon and cosmetic nurse). The facility offers traditional
spa treatments (such as facials) and alternative health practices
and treatments (such as microdermabrasion) in a spa-like setting.
In Canada, medical professionals working within a medical spa
are governed by the Canadian Medical Association and Health
Canada.

Melanin: Substance that gives hair and skin
its colour. Fairer skins have less melanin than darker skins.

Microdermabrasion: This skin resurfacing treatment
helps repair facial skin that has been damaged by photo-aging and
the natural effects of aging. The plastic surgeon uses a device
like a fine sandblaster to spray tiny crystals across the face,
mixing gentle abrasion with suction to remove the dead, outer layer
of skin.

Microlipoinjection: Medical term for injectable
fat fillers and autologous fat transplantation.

Microcomedo: This describes the first stage
of comedo formation. The microcomedo is still made up of sebum
and keratin, but it’s so small that it can be seen only with
a microscope. They are commonly referred to as plugs on the
hair sebaceous ducts.

Milia: Related to acne break-outs that produce
small, hard, white pustules that look like tiny grains of sand.
This is most common among people suffering from persistent
acne.

N

Nodules: These are much larger than other
types of acne. They are hard lumps underneath the surface of
the skin which can be painful and last for several months.
This type of acne is particularly vulnerable to scarring.

Nodulocystic Acne: A severe form of acne
that is characterized by numerous deep, inflamed bumps and
large lesions that resemble cysts. The inflamed bumps tend
to be tender when touched and feel firm. The severe inflammation
can cause the acne to become very red or even purple. Scarring
often results when the acne heals.

Noncomedogenic or Non-comedogenic: Cosmetic
products that will not clog pores. These are ideal for people
who have oily, combination skin and acne prone skin.

Non-inflammatory: Comedones (plural for comedo)
that are not associated with redness in the skin. This is a
condition related to acne.

O

Omega 3: Omega 3 (aka fatty acids) is the
name of a type of fat that the human body needs to function
normally. Our bodies do not produce Omega 3, we must integrate
it in our diet. Flax seed oil is one of the best vegetable
sources of Omega 3, while fatty fishes are the best animal
sources.

Omega 6: Just like Omega 3, Omega 6 are fatty
acids that are not produced by the body. The best sources of
Omega 6 include safflower oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, sesame
oil, Evening Primrose oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, walnut
oil and pumpkin seed oil.

Omega 9: Unlike Omega 3 and Omega 6, this class
of unsaturated fatty acids can be created by the human body from
unsaturated fat. The best food sources of Omega 9 include olive
oil, olives, avocados, almonds, peanuts, sesame oil, pecans, pistachio
nuts, cashews, hazelnuts and macadamia nuts.

Open Comedo: (aka blackheads): A non-inflammatory
comedo with a dark surface that is firmly packed with bacterial
contents.

P

Papules: These are small red bumps on the
skin. They are tender and cause irritation, and will cause
scarring when touched squeezed. Papules are inflammatory comedones
that resemble a small, red bump on the skin.

Papulopustular: A type of acne characterized
by the presence of papules and pustules.

Phenol Acids: This is the strongest of the
chemical solutions available. Phenol will produce a deep peel
and it’s most effective at treating patients with coarse facial
wrinkles, areas of blotchy or damaged skin caused by sun exposure,
or pre-cancerous growths.

Photoaging: Medical term used by experts
and dermatologists to describe aging caused by sun exposure.
People who live in sun-drenched regions or countries can show
signs of photoaging as early as their 20s.

Pomade Acne (a.k.a. acne cosmetica): Occurs
when pomade blocks pores and acne develops on the scalp, forehead
and/or temples—places where pomade comes into

contact with the skin.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: Medical
term to describe excessive skin darkening at places where the
skin was inflamed by acne or scars.

Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes): This
type of acne multiplies rapidly in clogged hair follicles where
sebum is trapped.

Pustule: Pustules are commonly referred to
as pimples or zits. They appear as a red circle with a white
or yellow center.

Pyoderma Faciale: This type of acne affects
women usually between the ages of 20 and 40. It causes large
painful pustules, nodules and cysts on the face and may leave
permanent scarring (especially on darker complexions). It most
often occurs in women who have never experienced acne before
and usually clears up within a year.

Q

R

Restylane ®: This soft tissue dermal filler
is injected to plump up the skin and gives it the volume that
decreases with age.

Retin-A: This is the synthetic form of vitamin
A. Retin-A is also known as tretinoin.

Retinal (a.k.a. retinaldehyde and/or retinene): Retinal
is a derivative vitamin A that is sensitive to light.

Retinoids: This stronger derivative of vitamin
A cuts down on oil production (for those with oil or combined
skin), it heals damaged DNA and creates blood circulation.

Retinol: Retinol (a derivative of vitamin
A) is the first antioxidant to be widely used in over-the-counter
wrinkle creams.This is a form of vitamin A that doesn’t have
much direct effect on aging skin.

Retinyl palmitate: Just like Retinal and
Retinol, Retinyl palmitate is another form of vitamin A that
doesn’t have much direct effect on aging skin.

Retinol Acid: Another term for Retinol.

S

Sebaceous Glands: Glands in the skin that
produce an oily substance called sebum. Often referred to in
the context of acne-prone skin, these glands are the sites
of acne lesions. Sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles
and are found mostly on the face, neck, back and chest (where
acne usually appears).

Sebum: The oily substance produced by sebaceous
glands.

Steroid Acne: Acne that develops from long-term
use of corticosteroid medications (used in the treatment of
diseases and conditions characterized by inflammation).

Soy isoflavones: Soy product derivatives
have been clinically proven to copy the effects of estrogen
in your body and this is why scientists refer to them as phytoestrogens.

T

Tea extracts: Green tea extracts are effective
at repairing sun damage skin, leaving skin toned and refined.

Tretinoin: The same ingredient used in Retin-A
to topically fight acne. More recently, tretinoin has been
used to softened fine lines. Tretinoin is a skincare treatment
that slowly penetrates the skin to gently slough away sun damage,
aging and melasma spots. Stronger and more effective concentrations
of tretinoin are prescribed by a dermatologist.

Skin that has been treated with tretinoin is sensitive to the
sun.

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA): This type of acidcan
be used in many concentrations, but it is most commonly used
for medium-depth peeling. Trichloroacetic acid is effective
at treating fine surface wrinkles, superficial blemishes and
pigment problems. The results of TCA peel are usually less
dramatic than and not as long-lasting as those of a phenol
peel.

U

V

Vitamin C: Topical vitamin C is an antioxidant
nutrient that repairs and protects skin by stimulating cell
renewal and increasing healthy circulation.

Vitamin E: Vitamin E, an antioxidant nutrient,
is the major antioxidant found in human skin. In fact, declining
levels of vitamin E in skin are associated with wrinkles.

W

White Blood Cells: A component of the blood
that fights off infections.

Whiteheads: Unlike blackheads, whiteheads
are contained beneath the surface of the skin. They are caused
by completely blocked pores which trap the sebum, dead cells,
and bacteria. Whiteheads are acne lesions that form when oil
and skin cells block the opening of a hair follicle. For this
reason, whiteheads are called “closed comedones.”

X

Y

Z

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