Five facts darker-skin beauties should know about acne-scar treatments

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Five facts darker-skin beauties should know about acne-scar treatments

June 5, 2008

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If you are of Southeast Asian, Hispanic (darker complexions and black Latinos), Asian, or of partial or full African descent, you should be aware of the five key factors that affect acne sufferers with darker skin. If you fall into these ethnic categories, you’ll be comforted to know there are some specific facts you need to consider before making informed decisions about your best adult acne treatment options.

Darker complexions should be aware of these facts when dealing with their acne:

1. Hyperpigmentation

Darker skin usually develops dark spots; in some cases the scars are so dark, they appear almost blackish in colour. These darkened spots or hyperpigmentation on the skin occur at the site of the healed acne flare-up. Hyperpigmentation is caused by excessive melanin production (darker skin tends to produce more melanin than fairer complexions).

The darkening of the skin is a normal reaction when dark skin becomes inflamed, such as after a rash, scratch or pimple. Some of the hyperpigmentation will gradually disappear over time, but some more resistant spots will remain on the face and body for a very long time. Darkened spots or hyperpigmentation is one complaint among dark-skinned acne sufferers. Just like acne, hyperpigmentation can diminish your self-esteem, make you very self conscious when you’re not wearing make-up and affect your ability to feel as confident as you once did. Another reality check for darker-skin beauties is the fact that choosing coverage when you suffer from hyperpigmentation can be a nightmare. Most darker-skin women tend to have uneven skin tones, when you add the complexity of hyperpigmentation, you find yourself with a face that has so many different shades.

How to treat dark spots - You can use a topical skin-lightening product to treat dark spots. Some skin-lightening products are available over-the-counter, while stronger formulas must be obtained via your dermatologist or your medical spa. Your dermatologists may also recommend topical acne treatments (such as Retinol-A) which are usually successful in fading the discoloration.

Before trying a skin-lightening product, you should always consult your dermatologist. Several potentially harmful skin-lightening products are entering North America and these products have the potential to worsen acne and can cause other skin conditions, such as severe dermatitis and rosacea.

If you didn’t have the opportunity to read a post we wrote on this topic, you can catch it here: Non-invasive treatment for scars

Always wear sunscreen - Although there are no clinical studies to support this claim, some dermatologists find that repeated sun exposure leads to longer treatment time of acne scars. Regardless of the severity of your acne scars, you should always wear sun protection, even if you have a darker complexion. That said, daily use of sunscreen SPF 15 or higher helps resolve hyperpigmentation more quickly. Make sure that only use “non-comedogenic” sunscreen so that you won’t clog your pores.

2. Not all acne treatments suit darker skin

Certain acne medications that have a drying effect on the skin, such as benzoyl peroxide, should only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. Benzoyl peroxide and other types of acne medications, which are very drying, may irritate your skin and prolong post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Not all is lost for darker skin acne sufferers, as a number of medical studies show that retinoids (Retinol-A) can safely and effectively treat acne on darker complexions without the drying effects when used properly.

You should also keep in mind that benzoyl peroxide can also decolourize darker skin.

3. Hair pomade and adult acne

A recent survey of black women who were also acne sufferers, revealed that 46.2 per cent use pomade, oil or ointment for hair to style or improve the manageability of their hair. Within that group a whopping 70.3 per cent of patients using pomade developed forehead acne.

This type of acne is called “acne cosmetica” or “pomade acne.” It occurs when pomade blocks pores and acne develops on the scalp, forehead and/or temples-places where pomade comes into contact with the skin. Pomade acne usually consists of blackheads and whiteheads. Ladies, “less” might be more if you are a Black Beauty who is also an acne sufferer! If you use pomade to decrease scalp dryness, try applying pomade one inch behind the hairline. If using pomade to style or make hair more manageable, try applying pomade to the ends of the hair only to avoid contact with the scalp and hairline. In order to diminish pomade acne, you want to stop using pomades for a certain period of time. Once you stop using hair pomade, your pomade acne should clear within a few months. You should always consult your dermatologist and hairdresser when making any changes to your skin and hair regime.

Many black women may not realize that most pomades, oils or ointments for black hair are made with mineral oil and other pore-clogging oils. We’ve been told by a number of hairdressers, including celebrity stylist Amoy Pitters, who specialize in black hair that not only are these products not the best for the skin, but it turns out they’re not the best for your hair either. You might want to opt for natural oils such as emu oil, coco oil, jojoba oil and an African favourite - shea butter to manage your hair without clogging your pores. Another useful tip if you do use pomades, oils or ointments is to wrap your hair at night before retiring to bed. You should avoid at all costs having greasy hair pressed against your face while you sleep.

4. Choose your moisturizer carefully

Many dark-skinned acne sufferers who also have combination or oily skin should carefully choose their daily moisturizer. You must imperatively opt for a non-comedogenic moisturizer to avoid clogging your pores. You can simply check the label of the product before buying it to ensure that it is in fact a non-comedogenic moisturizer. Your beauty consultant will help you with this decision.

If you still have acne problems after switching to a non-comedogenic moisturizer, consult your dermatologist.

5. Keloid may go hand in hand with acne-prone dark skin

When acne scarring occurs with darker skin, keloid may sometimes be unavoidable. Keloid is best described as a large raised scar that spreads beyond the size of the original wound. Keloid doesn’t affect all dark skin acne sufferers, but it is a real concern. Keloid usually surfaces on the chest, back and jaw line. If you suspect that you might be suffering from keloid, contact your doctor immediately.

If you want to know more about keloid, you might want to visit the following sites:

Keloids on answers.com

Definition of Keloid

Your best treatment: Keloid treatments may involve pressure, silicone gels, surgery, laser treatment or radiation therapy. Your cosmetic dermatologist or regular dermatologist will help you make the best decisions in choosing treatments that are aggressive enough to prevent further scarring.

Source: Adapted from Bates and Taylor SC studies

Photo by Babasteve

Posted by Beauty Match on June 5, 2008 | Permalink

Topics: Adult Acne Skincare, Ethnic Beauty Tips |