I’ve waited for this day for so long and when I woke up on April 2nd I could barely contain my excitement because I was finally going to see a cosmetic doctor for my acne scars!

If you’ve been following my daily beauty banters than you know that I hate having to deal with acne as an adult, considering I had it as a teenager, and I hate the sight of my acne scars even more.

When you are a dark skin beauty, acne scars leave dark spots on your skin … in my case, I have them on my cheeks, jaw line, chest, shoulders and a bit on the top of   my back. It got so bad that last summer I refused to show my arms and covered them because I was convinced the world could only see that.

I knew off the bat that fraxel laser was not even a consideration because darker skin beauties cannot undergo this type of procedure. That said, I had consulted Dr. Diane Wong (Glow Medi Spa) about six months ago and she had recommended a peel. I took time to control my acne thanks to Genuine Health’s Perfect Skin before considering the peel.

I had consulted other cosmetic doctors and some tried to convince me that laser was safe for my skin tone or that hydroquinone was the way to go. The problem with those doctors is that they don’t know that I’m a beauty editor and that I spend my life reading about this stuff and from firsthand experience I knew that laser burns my skin. I also have read enough information on hydroquinone to know that if it’s banned in Europe (because of cancer scares) there is no way in hell I’m applying it on my skin as a daily treatment for my hyperpigmentation. Now when it comes to hydroquinone, I should clarify that it’s okay to use it under a doctor’s supervision if it’s for a short period of time, but under no circumstances should you be using this stuff daily for the rest of your life.

My aesthetician was Veronica. She’s from Eastern Europe (I still have not asked from where, but will) and I was quite excited because when it comes to skin treatments Eastern European and Russian women have been indulging in those types of anti-aging techniques for centuries so I knew I was in good hands.

After assessing my skin Veronica declared the following beauty bomb:

“No matter what anyone tells you, your type of skin should never be subject to chemical peels because they are too strong. We will do a lactic acid peel, because it’s safer, but we will not do a chemical peel.”

It has to do with the size of the molecules that penetrate in the skin and to be honest I barely passed chemistry in high school so most of this went well over my head, but I did understand “danger-danger” loud and clear. I did mention to Veronica that I had had a fruit enzyme peel in the past and she said that was fine.

I was equally proud to let her know that I had learned from my initial meeting with Dr. Wong and had (sadly) given up my Guerlain facials because they weren’t the best for my skin type. Anna at Guerlain is the most amazing facial expert I’ve ever met and I don’t recall breaking out after those facials, but what’s the point of spending all this money if I’m doing things that are counterproductive.   Veronica explained that extractions were the devil for my type of skin because they give way to SCARS!!!

Another thing that I learned with much sadness is that I will not receive any lactic peels on my shoulders because it would be a waste of my money. After a quick pow-wow session with Veronica, Brigit (a seasoned skin expert) and Dr. Wong it was determined that I needed to get on a plan created by Alyria to help me fade those scars and I could only expect to see maybe 40% improvement. I almost cried at that news, but calmed myself down and decided to trust these qualified women and that maybe 40% improvement from where I’m at now would be good and I could show off my arms again. I mean after all, I’m spending all this time working out by following Madonna as an inspiration to get her arms so if I can show them off with fewer scars … that’s a win, right?

I’ll document my progress!

Veronica informed me that I needed to come in for a lactic acid peel on a monthly base for better results. On the bright side, that might be one of my only major skincare expenses since after seeing my face without a trace of makeup she thought I was in my mid-20s (bless her heart)!!!

Veronica put me on a scar fading and acne controlling regime. I’ve not yet started using these products, but I thought I’d list them below and I can report on my progressions.

I should preface by saying a few of these lines are Canadian and MUST be supervised by a medical doctor, but I’m sure that you can find a line that is equally effective if you live in the US or Europe or anywhere else in the world. That said, you can also ask your own medical doctor to order these products so you can try them.

1) Acne control skincare plan:

Dr. Wong, Brigit and Veronica chose Biophora (this is a cosmeceutical line) for my skin. I had not heard of the brand and you most likely will be in the same boat than I was because only cosmetic doctors can sell this line (this stuff really works because of active ingredients and your doctor will need to make sure you know how to use them).

So here are the products I’ll be using:

=> Biophora Bioactive Cleanser

=> Biophora Antibacterial veil (for the night)

=> Biophora AHA Active Gel 15% (for the night), after I’m done with that formula Veronica will down grade me to the Biophora Bioactive Gel 8%

=> Biophora Bioactive Solution 3% (for the night)

=> Biophora Light Hydration (this hydrates and firms!)

You’ll find out more about Biophora here: Biophora Skincare

2) SPF Protection: OMG – Elta MD Physical (the Physical is the one I’ll be using … I’m pointing this out because they have several formulas) had a SPF that is oil-free AND chemical-free!!! I cannot believe that I can finally use SPF and not breakout. Now you should know that this SPF is a bit pricey $40 USD/$50 CAD, but think about it – NO CHEMICALS AND NO BREAK OUTS!

This is a US brand that is sold in Canada as well. You can find out more here: Elta MD

3) Scar fading skincare plan to fade my acne scars on my body: For my body it’s Alyria all the way and I’ve been warned that the results will be so phenomenal that it will knock my socks off. I cannot wait to be surprised.

Here’s what I’ll be using to help fade my body acne scars:

=> Alyria Resurfacing Body Care

=> Alyria Exfoliating Cream Level 3

You’ll find out more about Alyria products here: Alyria skincare

Don’t forget to read about Norah’s experience with fraxel laser:

Have you considered laser resurfacing to get rid of your severe acne scars?

What you need to know about using fraxel laser to remove your acne scars

Many have compared her style to Jacqueline Onassis Kennedy, but I’d say that Michelle Obama’s look is far more practical and she suits well the role of the woman representing so many other busy women juggling so many responsibilities.

I thought it might be fun to take a look at First Lady Michelle Obama’s hairstyle because it really makes a statement.

I have a feeling I’ll be covering Michelle Obama a lot, so this is most likely going to be a post that merely scratches the surface of Michelle Obama’s beauty regime and her beauty secrets.

It’s true that Michelle Obama is black, but since her hair is blow dried and flat ironed, women of any ethnicity can take a few notes from Michelle Obama hairstyle of choice.

How does she maintain her sleek and stylish bob haircut?

Michelle’s short bob is a great cut that can be worn so many different ways and it fits the lifestyle of the busy woman so well.

Can women with curly hair still adopt the Michelle Obama hairstyle?

Mixed raced beauties, women with naturally curly or black women who wear their hair natural can easily wear the Michelle Obama bob (of course black women with chemical relaxers can also achieve this look, although Michelle Obama doesn’t have a chemical relaxer in her hair … just like Queen Oprah who also sports natural hair).

You most likely will need to straighten the hair with a blow-dry hair that has a comb attachment. You also need to finish the look with a flat iron! I’ve seen black women who prefer sporting their hair naturally at my salon leave with smooth silky hair thanks to some serious blow drying!

“Michelle Obama’s long time stylist, Rahni Flowers of Chicago’s Van Cleef Salon is said to gently layers the hair around her face to add movement and volume to her classic, blunt-cut bob. ” –

Source: Total Beauty

Other styles for a short bob:

Since we ALL have bad hair days or days where we are simply way too busy to think about having perfect hair, a bob can still be a very versatile look for any type of day that you’re having.

Mrs Obama

* You can easily pull your hair back and wear it in a low chignon (bun).

* Michelle can also choose to put a few crystal studded pins on each side of her hair.

* Michelle can certainly go retro and add a headband for days where her hair is not co-operating.

* I love the vintage flip on a bob and Michelle Obama has done it so well during the campaign trail.

* Doing the reverse to a flip is also a great alternative. Michelle has been seen wearing her ends curled inside.

* Of course Michelle could go British and use a stylish hat as an alternative to those days when she doesn’t want to fuss with her hair.

>>>> Here’s an extra hair tip from my own hairdresser (who also is named Michelle): My hairdresser always advises all of her clients (regardless of race) to sleep with their hair wrapped in a silk scarf to preserve straightened styles! It works miracles and it’s amazing how much nicer your hair looks in the morning!

This is a loaded question, but one that a lot of Caucasian women seem to focus on. I cannot tell you how many times people say to me: “no wonder you don’t have wrinkles … black women never age”. Well, that’s not entirely true. It’s obvious that too many people watch Oprah … since it was on her show that Iman (aka Mrs. Iman Bowie) declared on TV that “black don’t crack”!

I wish it were that simple, but it’s not. Being black is NOT a licence to wrinkle-free skin. It’s a bit more complicated than that, but being black (or Asian or darker skin Hispanics) does give the advantage of naturally having more melanin in your skin.

That said, there are certain ethnic characteristics to aging and you’ll find a list of some of the more obvious ones below. You’ll also find some of the most common cosmetic enhancements certain ethnic groups might undertake to smoothen out the signs of aging.

One thing I should make clear … ethnicity is only part of the equation, when it comes to aging well, nutrition and lifestyle are crucially important!

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* When it comes to aging, Caucasian women will find that they will start showing tell-tale signs far earlier than their counterparts because they have fairly thin skin. Although they won’t have to deal with dark scars left behind by cuts or acne, they will show fine lines in their late 20s and sometimes sooner.

* Unlike Asian, Hispanic, Mediterranean, black and East Indian women who all tend not to feel the need to get a darker, many Caucasian women sun tan or use tanning salons to achieve that golden post-vacation look.

* A lifetime of excessive sun exposure will leave Caucasian skin subject to premature aging, severe discolouration and deep wrinkles.

* Cosmetic treatments such as light therapy and laser resurfacing will considerably help with a lifetime of sun exposure. When it comes to dealing with deep wrinkles, injectable fillers become a (Caucasian) girl’s best friend.

* When injections like gentler forms of cosmetic rejuvenation treatments no longer seem to provide results, Caucasian women tend to get facelifts to turn back the hands of time.

caucasian_white_woman_smiling

* In general, Caucasians tend to get more facelifts than their counterparts. This can be certainly due to the fact that in most cases white women will show wrinkles at an early age because they have thinner skin, but it can also be attributed to the fact that more invasive procedures can sometimes alter ethnic features of non-Caucasian women. Another contributing factor could be that given Caucasian skin is thinner … it will start sagging faster than women with thicker skin.

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* I’ve heard a number of Asian women talk about the “Asian Secret”. It seems that Asians will age effortlessly until they hit their early 60s and then visible signs of aging become quite noticeable (this is something I’ve been told by a number of Asian girlfriends and contacts).

* Asians also start showing their age because of the drooping of their eye lids and many opt for eyelid surgery to remove the excess skin and open the eye.

* Although Asians don’t seem to have to worry about wrinkles, skin discolouration, dryness and blotchiness are still skincare concerns as they age.

* When it comes to cosmetic rejuvenation, it seems that Asians favour eyelid surgery, filler injections and facial peels.

Why don’t black women and African-American women seem to have any wrinkles?

* When black women take care of themselves and adopt a good lifestyle, they can easily look 10 or 15 years younger than their counterparts because of their built in anti-ager – melanin.

black_woman_african_american

* Black women also have a tough time with scarring, skin discolouration, skin tone differences on their face and dark circles.

* When it comes to cosmetic rejuvenation, black women tend to gravitate towards injectable fillers and when they go under the knife it’s usually for a nose job. Since they have thicker skin than their counterparts, post-treatment swelling that follows cosmetic procedures tends to be minimal.

* Black women should really proceed with great caution when it comes to certain cosmetic procedures because some of them can cause permanent scarring during the healing process.

* Keloids (a large raised scar that spreads beyond the size of the original wound) are also of great concern to black women when incisions and scarring are involved.

How do East Indian women age?

* East Indian women deal with a lot of the same skincare issues as black women. Their major concerns deal with skin discolouration, patchiness and blotchiness. In some cases, East Indian women deal with severe dark circles around their eyes.

woman_oprah_aishwarya_rai

* Because they are lighter in complexion than black women, East Indian women are able to take advantage of the age-reversing effects of laser resurfacing and just like black women they also find chemical peels to be effective at helping them deal with scars.

italian_woman

* When you think of Mediterranean women you think of women like Sophia Loren (Italian), Laura Morante (also Italian), Natalie Portman (Israeli), Nelly Furtado (Portuguese), Sofia Milos (half Italian and half Greek).

* When you think of Hispanic women, you think of Salma Hayek (half Mexican and half Lebanese), Sophia Vergara (Columbian) and Eva Mendes (Cuban-American).

* These women have one thing in common: olive skin that is not as fragile as their Caucasian counterparts.

* Mediterranean and Hispanic women don’t show the signs of aging as quickly as Caucasians because they have more melanin. Therefore, they don’t have to show their (real) age until later in life.

brazilian_woman

* These women will also have to contend with sagging skin as they age and since they are darker than Caucasians they’ll also have to deal with scars to a certain extent.

* When it comes to getting some help from their cosmetic doctors, many Mediterranean and Hispanic women will opt for filler injections.

First photo by by som sol’n förlät

Photo of Oprah Winfrey and Aishwarya Rai by som sol’n förlät

Photo of blond by som sol’n förlät

Photo of comparison between Aishwarya and Caucasian woman by som sol’n förlät

Photo of Brazilian TV show presenter Claudete Troiano (short haired blond) by by Sérgio Savaman Savarese

Photo of Asian woman by Amy Nguyen

Photo of black woman by by Saquan Stimpson/monstershaq200 0

Photo of Italian woman riding a bicycle by by gapysphoto

Photo of Caucasian woman smiling by by makelessnoise

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These models are the top black models in the industry at present and it’s quite the homage that Vogue Italy would feature Liya Kebede, Sesilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell. Liya Kebede made the front cover while the other three black beauties graced the pages of the rest of the fold out.

The July issue of Vogue Italy is far more than just showcasing four pretty faces, it’s about featuring successful black women in the arts and entertainment world.

vogue_italy_black_model_sesilee_lopez

I remember as a teenage admiring pages after pages of black models in magazines and that’s just not something you see as often anymore.

In fact, the reason why Yves Saint Laurent makeup was the first line of cosmetics I bought with my allowance money as a teenage was because he constantly used black models in his fashion shows and as

vogue_italy_black_model_jourdan_dunn

Along with the four cover ladies for their July 2008 edition, Vogue Italy has featured a long list of the top black models in the industry for decades: Iman, Karen Alexander, Tyra Banks, Veronica Webb, Gail O’Neil, Yasmin Warsame, Alek Wek, Alva Chin, Arlenis Sosa Pena and Chanel Iman.

New York Times Fashion & Style did a report on the discrimination of black models in the fashion world: Conspicuous by Their Presence.

I quite like the angle New York Times uses in this article to highlight the fact that in the US African

vogue_italy_black_model_naomi_campbell

Amoy is a celebrity hairdresser in New York and she’s coiffed the tresses of many famous black beauties such as “Project Runway” Canada’s host Iman, Naomi Campbell, Joy Bryant, Angela Bassett, ex-editor-in-chief of Flare Magazine Suzanne Boyd, Nia Long (from the series “Big Shots”) and Victoria’s Secret supermodel Selita Ebanks. Amoy has also styled the hair of über-fashion designer Donatella Versace and Sting’s wife – Trudie Styler.

amoy_pitters

Celebrity hair style secrets of famous black beauties

Amoy Pitters’ haircare guide for Black Beauties

Mistakes black women make when it comes to basic hair care

Mistakes black women make when it comes to chemical relaxers

Mistakes black women make when it comes to weaves, extensions and braids

Photo by Bnghair

Top photo of Iman from Iman’s website

I’ll be honest that I’ve had people think I’m much younger than I actually am and my aestheticians who see me without any makeup have also commented on my wrinkle-less skin.

There is only one person who has ever been able to guess my age and that’s my black Latino friend Rafi (my ex-colourist … and that’s before I had any greys).

When I asked him how in the world he knew when most people thought that I was a decade (or more) younger than I am, he responded: “I know my people” (in other words, he was able to tell the age of other blacks even when non-blacks weren’t able to).

Now, before making a gross generalization and stating that all darker-skin beauties never show any signs of aging, I should highlight that lifestyle affects 80-90 per cent the way we age. I have seen dark-skin beauties who looked far-far-far older than their age, because they were carrying a heavy burden or because they had been hit by illness or simply because they made terrible food and diet choices.

That said, melanin (the substance that gives skin its colour), plays a huge part in how different ethnicities show the signs of aging. Lighter and fairer complexions are very much susceptible to aging faster because harmful UV rays from the sun can penetrate their skin more easily and deeply. As a result, their skin loses moisture more quickly, and collagen breaks down more rapidly than in a thicker, darker skin. Darker-skin beauties have a built-in anti-aging barrier in melanin because of its photo-protective role.

Just in case you were wondering, melanin is found at the bottom of the epidermis. It acts as barrier against the rays that damage the dermis, acting as a built-in sun filter and considerably slowing down the signs of aging.

Now, it’s important to keep in mind that although darker-skin beauties might not have to worry as much about photo-aging, they still have concerns about skin cancer, as melanin does NOT protect the skin against skin cancer.

So, in essence “black CAN crack”!

Darker complexions should be aware of these facts when dealing with their acne:

1. Hyperpigmentation

Darker skin usually develops dark spots; in some cases the scars are so dark, they appear almost blackish in colour. These darkened spots or hyperpigmentation on the skin occur at the site of the healed acne flare-up. Hyperpigmentation is caused by excessive melanin production (darker skin tends to produce more melanin than fairer complexions).

The darkening of the skin is a normal reaction when dark skin becomes inflamed, such as after a rash, scratch or pimple. Some of the hyperpigmentation will gradually disappear over time, but some more resistant spots will remain on the face and body for a very long time. Darkened spots or hyperpigmentation is one complaint among dark-skinned acne sufferers. Just like acne, hyperpigmentation can diminish your self-esteem, make you very self conscious when you’re not wearing make-up and affect your ability to feel as confident as you once did. Another reality check for darker-skin beauties is the fact that choosing coverage when you suffer from hyperpigmentation can be a nightmare. Most darker-skin women tend to have uneven skin tones, when you add the complexity of hyperpigmentation, you find yourself with a face that has so many different shades.

How to treat dark spots – You can use a topical skin-lightening product to treat dark spots. Some skin-lightening products are available over-the-counter, while stronger formulas must be obtained via your dermatologist or your medical spa. Your dermatologists may also recommend topical acne treatments (such as Retinol-A) which are usually successful in fading the discoloration.

Before trying a skin-lightening product, you should always consult your dermatologist. Several potentially harmful skin-lightening products are entering North America and these products have the potential to worsen acne and can cause other skin conditions, such as severe dermatitis and rosacea.

If you didn’t have the opportunity to read a post we wrote on this topic, you can catch it here: Non-invasive treatment for scars

Always wear sunscreen - Although there are no clinical studies to support this claim, some dermatologists find that repeated sun exposure leads to longer treatment time of acne scars. Regardless of the severity of your acne scars, you should always wear sun protection, even if you have a darker complexion. That said, daily use of sunscreen SPF 15 or higher helps resolve hyperpigmentation more quickly. Make sure that only use “non-comedogenic” sunscreen so that you won’t clog your pores.

2. Not all acne treatments suit darker skin

Certain acne medications that have a drying effect on the skin, such as benzoyl peroxide, should only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. Benzoyl peroxide and other types of acne medications, which are very drying, may irritate your skin and prolong post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Not all is lost for darker skin acne sufferers, as a number of medical studies show that retinoids (Retinol-A) can safely and effectively treat acne on darker complexions without the drying effects when used properly.

You should also keep in mind that benzoyl peroxide can also decolourize darker skin.

3. Hair pomade and adult acne

A recent survey of black women who were also acne sufferers, revealed that 46.2 per cent use pomade, oil or ointment for hair to style or improve the manageability of their hair. Within that group a whopping 70.3 per cent of patients using pomade developed forehead acne.

This type of acne is called “acne cosmetica” or “pomade acne.” It occurs when pomade blocks pores and acne develops on the scalp, forehead and/or temples-places where pomade comes into contact with the skin. Pomade acne usually consists of blackheads and whiteheads. Ladies, “less” might be more if you are a Black Beauty who is also an acne sufferer! If you use pomade to decrease scalp dryness, try applying pomade one inch behind the hairline. If using pomade to style or make hair more manageable, try applying pomade to the ends of the hair only to avoid contact with the scalp and hairline. In order to diminish pomade acne, you want to stop using pomades for a certain period of time. Once you stop using hair pomade, your pomade acne should clear within a few months. You should always consult your dermatologist and hairdresser when making any changes to your skin and hair regime.

Many black women may not realize that most pomades, oils or ointments for black hair are made with mineral oil and other pore-clogging oils. We’ve been told by a number of hairdressers, including celebrity stylist Amoy Pitters, who specialize in black hair that not only are these products not the best for the skin, but it turns out they’re not the best for your hair either. You might want to opt for natural oils such as emu oil, coco oil, jojoba oil and an African favourite – shea butter to manage your hair without clogging your pores. Another useful tip if you do use pomades, oils or ointments is to wrap your hair at night before retiring to bed. You should avoid at all costs having greasy hair pressed against your face while you sleep.

4. Choose your moisturizer carefully

Many dark-skinned acne sufferers who also have combination or oily skin should carefully choose their daily moisturizer. You must imperatively opt for a non-comedogenic moisturizer to avoid clogging your pores. You can simply check the label of the product before buying it to ensure that it is in fact a non-comedogenic moisturizer. Your beauty consultant will help you with this decision.

If you still have acne problems after switching to a non-comedogenic moisturizer, consult your dermatologist.

5. Keloid may go hand in hand with acne-prone dark skin

When acne scarring occurs with darker skin, keloid may sometimes be unavoidable. Keloid is best described as a large raised scar that spreads beyond the size of the original wound. Keloid doesn’t affect all dark skin acne sufferers, but it is a real concern. Keloid usually surfaces on the chest, back and jaw line. If you suspect that you might be suffering from keloid, contact your doctor immediately.

If you want to know more about keloid, you might want to visit the following sites:

Keloids on answers.com

Definition of Keloid

Your best treatment: Keloid treatments may involve pressure, silicone gels, surgery, laser treatment or radiation therapy. Your cosmetic dermatologist or regular dermatologist will help you make the best decisions in choosing treatments that are aggressive enough to prevent further scarring.

Source: Adapted from Bates and Taylor SC studies

Photo by Babasteve

That said, you’ll quickly notice that mixed-race Americans, Canadians and Brits (such as half South East Asians, half Afro or half Middle Eastern or an even more complex combination of races) are much more cautious about laser resurfacing. Rightly so, laser resurfacing is one of those risky cosmetic skincare treatments for darker skin and mixed raced beauties.

It is very difficult (if not nearly impossible) to determine before the treatment how your skin will react to the laser. Some dermatologists will say that “their laser machine” is suitable for all skin complexions, but that can never be guaranteed 100%. In general, darker-skin (including Asians, South East Asians, Inuits, Native Indians and Latinos) or mixed-race beauties must keep in mind the possibilities of severe hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration (trust me … I know this first-hand).

Dark spots, scars, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation are some of the most common age related problems that face many darker-skin beauties. There are many safer treatments that can be used to deal with these skincare aging issues. Your cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon will assess the best treatments that will give you results…safely.

If you are still considering laser resurfacing, you’ll want to ask a lot of questions, do a lot of research and ask (ok, demand) for a patch test before moving forward.

You’ll want to keep in mind the ultimate sacrifice for darker skin beauties: certain treatments will alter your skin tone in an irreversible way…yes, I’m talking about permanent skin damage.

Photo by McGun

You can imagine how excited I was to learn about hair care for Afro hair from a woman who was an expert in the field.

I don’t know about you, but I’ve always wanted to know from a celebrity stylist which were the secrets Hollywood stars used to always ensure they look glamorous and that’s exactly what I did when I spoke with Amoy. I asked her if she’d be willing to reveal a few celebrity secrets and she was up for the challenge.

Amoy was willing to spill the goods on Selita Ebanks, Iman, Naomi Campbell and Joy Bryant.

Selita Ebanks: This Victoria’s Secret from Cayman Islands gets often mistaken for a Black Latina (aka Blatina … as I call us) because of her features and skin colour. Regardless of her ethnic origins, Selita is an absolutely gorgeous woman with a killer body. I’ve seen the Victoria’s Secret photos and have looked at that mass of hair with much envy. When Amoy revealed that Selita shamelessly uses extensions … I felt much better knowing that Selita had a little help in the hair department. Selita Ebanks plays with extensions to add fullness and to easily change her looks. Since she often loves to play with hair colours, she can colour the extensions instead of damaging her own hair. Selita is often cast for swimwear shoots, which require her to spend a lot of time in the water to capture the right photo. She’ll use wavy extensions to create that illusion of the perfect curl for the camera.

Joy Bryant: Movie actress and former fashion model for Tommy Hilfiger, Joy Bryant is known for her tough girl roles. Perhaps her most famous role might be alongside Jessica Alba in the 2003 movie “Honey”. Joy has always been seen wearing sleek, long and shiny hair. In recent years, Amoy revealed that she’s decided not to relax her hair bone straight and she’s now opted for a texturized look. She still plays with extensions to add length and fullness to her naturally beautiful hair for movie premieres and events that require a vampier look

Naomi Campbell: Although well known for her bad-girl and diva attitude, Naomi is officially the biggest black model ever to have sashayed down the cat walk. Naomi has been sporting extensions for as long as I can remember. She had been wearing her extensions super-long for many years, but recently we’ve seen her with a few short bob looks that would make Katie Holmes (aka Mrs. Tom Cruise) and her BFF (best friend forever) Victoria (Posh) Beckham red with envy. This Jamaican-British beauty used to sport golden highlights, but now she’s back to a more classic hair colour for her extensions. She’s also back to wearing longer extensions and has moved on from the bob hair dos she wore so well.

Iman: Personally I find Mrs. David Bowie flawless. I’ve been a huge fan of Iman since I first saw her as the face of Yves Saint Laurent make-up in the 80s as a teenager. I truly admire Iman’s grace, beauty, business sense and her choice of a husband! This Somalian beauty uses wigs instead of extensions to go from long to short and from redheaded to golden blond. It’s been quite obvious from her recent debut as fashion-dominatrix (I mean host) on the popular series “Project Catwalk Canada” that Iman’s hair styles are as much part of her beauty as her perfectly applied make-up.

Playing with extensions to enhance your look:

Amoy Pitters really likes to play with extensions for her clients (Black Beauties and Caucasians alike). She feels so many models and actresses have to get frequent touch-ups while on set or during photo shoots and years of mechanical treatment (brushing, blow drying, curling and flat ironing) will leave the hair fragile and brittle. Extensions are an ideal way of creating any look while protecting your own hair.

About Amoy Pitters

If you’re visiting New York City you can book an appointment with Amoy’s Beauty Salon located at 239 East 10^th Street. The number is 212-529-5153. If you have family or friends in London (U.K.) you might also want to let them know that Amoy works in London each month for about one week. If you call her New York salon, you’ll be able to get more information.

Photo by Christopher Peterson

chemical_peels_1

There are two other chemical peels that might be better suited to your skin if the phenol peel is too strong: the trichloroacetic acid chemical peel and the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

While also effective, the trichloroacetic acid chemical peel is not as aggressive as a phenol chemical peel. Trichloroacetic acid chemical peels smooth fine wrinkles and can even remove superficial blemishes.

Contrarily to a phenol chemical peel which is not suited for everyone, the trichloroacetic acid can suit many more skin types.

Your cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon will be the one determining which types of peel will better suit your anti-aging concerns, but it might interesting for you to see if you might be a good a candidate for this type of peel.

Here are a few facts about a trichloroacetic acid that might be interesting for you to know:

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* Your cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon might recommend a pre-treatment with Retin-A or alpha hydroxy acid creams.

* Because a trichloroacetic acid peel is quick and has little post-treatment side effects, you might want to see it as a “lunch time treatment,” because it takes as little as 15 minutes.

* If you’re a dark skin beauty, this might be a much better option than a phenol acid peel. In fact, a trichloroacetic acid could considerably help with your hyper- or hypo-pigment problems.

* Just like with any cosmetic treatment, you’ll need to be extra careful when it comes to using adequate sun protection for your skin for several weeks and even several months after the procedure.

Post-treatment considerations

* Most people will have some post-treatment side effects after a chemical peel. The most common ones are flaking, scaling, redness and dryness of the skin. However, in most cases these conditions will disappear as the skin adjusts to treatment. If you opt for one of the stronger types of peels like a trichloroacetic acid chemical peel the side effect might be more serious if you’re not well prepared and if you’re consulting a cosmetic doctor or a cosmetic nurse that’s not qualified.

* Although a trichloroacetic acid chemical peel is not as strong as a phenol chemical peel, your dermatologist might still prescribe a mild pain medication to relieve any tingling or throbbing you may feel.

* If any scab forms after the peel, you should not only report this to your cosmetic doctor, but you must also follow your cosmetic doctor’s specific post-treatment recommendation.

* In some cases, a trichloroacetic acid peel may cause significant swelling. The swelling is often a result of the strength of the peel used. If you have more sensitive skin, you should let your cosmetic doctor or cosmetic nurse know in advance in order for her/him to adjust the strength of the peel. Even with these precautions, you might still experience some moderate discomfort and mild swelling, which should subside within five to seven days.

You should expect that it will take about seven to ten days before your new skin becomes apparent. At that point in time, you will have sufficiently healed and you’ll be ready to return to your normal activities.

Photo by

Technowannabe

A chemical peel uses a chemical solution (phenol, trichloroacetic acid and alphahydroxy acids) to improve and smooth the texture of the facial skin by removing its damaged outer layers. It’s especially effective for those suffering from facial blemishes, wrinkles and uneven skin pigmentation.

The visible improvement resulting from a chemical peel will enhance your appearance and maybe boost your self confidence because the truth is that as a dark-skin beauty … it’s not fun to have to live with dark spots and acne scars.

Different skin conditions will require different types of chemical peels and your cosmetic dermatologist will be the best person to help you make that decision. Since certain chemical peels can be fairly strong, your dermatologist is also the most qualified person to determine which level of peel is best suited for you skin.

One thing to keep in mind is the fact that a chemical peel will not prevent or slow the aging process. That said, it will do wonders at improving your skin.

Photo by Paleontour

In my opinion, this is a MUST have tool! The brush is sold at different salons in the U.S. and at Aveda boutiques. In Canada, you’ll find it at Civello salons and at Aveda boutiques. It retails for $30 CDN/$ 17 USD. You can also buy the brush on Aveda’s Web site.

There are many black women who decide to opt for extensions and weaves to add to the length and volume of their hair. Unlike the Hollywood and supermodel crowd; and many Caucasians, Asian and non-black Latinas who have recently discovered the magic of extensions, black women have been using this little hair trick for many decades now.

It’s true that nothing creates a more dramatic effect than extensions or weaves, but you really need to know how to take care of them or they can look quite unflattering.
Amoy Pitters’ tips on adding weaves and extensions:

* Weaves and extensions should never be worn months on end.

* This is the most expensive hair style for black women and it should not be seen as a cop-out to a chemical relaxer.

* Weaves and extensions must be renewed every 8-10 weeks. If you have chemically relaxed hair, you should change you hair pieces when you get your touch up done.

* When it comes to choosing the hair, opt for human hair instead of synthetic hair. It might cost more, but the results are more natural.

* Choose the right texture and colour to match your hair. In other words, if you have natural Afro hair that has not been chemically relaxed, avoid buying hair that is too silky-straight.

* For a more natural look, opt for hair pieces to enhance your natural hair instead of a full weave.

* If you wear a weave of extensions, you still need weekly deep conditioning treatments.

* Many women don’t understand that a weave and extensions are a serious financial commitment since most hairdressers charge several hundreds of dollars for them.

Amoy Pitters’ tips on wearing braids:

* Many women who wear braids get them done way too tight and in the long run these women tend to lose the hair around their forehead.

* In some case, women with braids will experience permanent hair loss and baldness around the forehead area because of long term braids.

* In the long run, braids will weaken the hair and subsequently cause the hair to snap off because the hair is constantly pulled.

* Proper hair washing is very tricky when you wear braids and it makes proper scalp washing and massaging almost impossible. Scalp stimulus is essential for hair growth and this is something women who wear long term braids are missing out on.

* All in all, braids can be used for a short period of time as a corrective measure, but in the long run, it’s not the healthiest hair style for black women.

* Amoy also adds, that braids MUST be redone every month!

Photo by Paleontour

Black or mixed women who decide to opt for a chemical relaxer to soften the curliness of their hair in order to make hair styling a much easier process know how fragile and delicate the hair can become over time. When your hair is chemically relaxed, hair care is essential in order to prevent falling into a vicious cycle of permanent breakage that can follow a chemical relaxer.

Amoy Pitters’ tips on chemically relaxed hair:

* If you are not a professional hairdresser you should NOT do your own chemical relaxers and you should certainly not do relaxers for friends and family members.

* Over-the-counter relaxers are not the best buys because you may be buying the wrong strength for your hair texture … which could result in hair breakage.

* The ideal time frame for touch-ups is every 6-8 weeks and not sooner.

* It’s essential to use a neutralizing shampoo after the relaxer to bring back the PH level of the hair and avoid breakage.

* You need to wait 2-3 weeks after a relaxer before applying demi-permanent or permanent colour to avoid severe hair breakage disasters.

About Amoy Pitters

If you’re visiting New York City you can book an appointment with Amoy’s Beauty Salon located at 239 East 10th Street. The number is 212-529-5153. If you have family or friends in London (U.K.) you might also want to let them know that Amoy works in London each month for about one week. If you call her New York salon, you’ll be able to get more information.

Photo by ChicagoEye

According to Amoy, many black and mixed women make mistakes that cost them the health of their hair. These tips should certainly help you make some changes to your hair care routine that will really turn things around for you.

Amoy Pitters’ tips on proper hair care for Afro hair:

* Black women must wash their hair once per week to ensure healthy hair growth and scalp stimulus.

* When it comes to using oils to condition the hair, black women MUST avoid mineral-base and synthetic-oils and opt for natural products such as castor, jojoba, coconut oils, shea butter or my personal favourite Ojon oil. Mineral oils will clog your hair follicles which will result in preventing hair growth.

* Regardless of the chosen hair style, black women should treat their hair to weekly deep conditioning treatments which are important in keeping the hair more resilient to breakage. Protein treatments are also important in order to strengthen the hair.

* Hair colour should always be done by a professional to ensure proper hair care and also to ensure that you are sporting the right base colour for your skin complexion.

Amoy Pitters’ tips on natural Afro Styles:

* Natural Afro styled hair requires a lot of good quality moisturizers to untangle hair after washing it.

* If you opt for a natural Afro style, you should make sure that your hair is constantly moist by using the appropriate styling products to ensure easy styling.

* A weekly scalp treatment using synthetic-free oils such as for castor, jojoba, coconut oils, shea butter or my personal favourite Ojon oil is very important.

* If you are going to press your hair with a hot iron or use a blow dryer to smooth down natural Afro hair, you will require weekly washing and re-styling in order to prevent breakage.

Photo: Digital Scan of my February 2008 Entertainment Magazine featuring Tyra Banks.

I recently had the immense pleasure of chatting about hair with Amoy Pitters. Amoy is a celebrity hairdresser in New York and she’s coiffed the tresses of many famous Black Beauties such as Project Catwalk Canada’s host Iman, Naomi Campbell, Joy Bryant, Angela Bassett, ex-editor-in-chief of Flare Magazine Suzanne Boyd, Nia Long (ABC’s Big Shot … as seen on the photo above) and Victoria’s Secret supermodel Selita Ebanks. She has also styled the hair of über fashion designer Donatella Versace and Sting’s wife – Trudie Styler. You can imagine how excited I was to learn about hair care for Afro hair from a woman who was an expert in the field.

I went right to the core of the matter and asked Pitters which were the top mistakes black women made when it comes to proper hair care. I divided Amoy’s answers based on the different hair styles black women mostly adopt.

Amoy revealed that many black women have misconceptions about their hair that prevents them from growing the type of long and healthy hair so many women desire.

Following Amoy’s recommendations will surely help you to grow longer and healthier hair.

Since I had a long and insightful conversation with Amoy, I’ve broken down the essence of our interview into three parts, but you’ll want to read a future post that should be published next month where Amoy reveals hair secrets from some of her celeb Black Beauty clients.

If you are a Black Beauty or if you have black girlfriends who might want to take advantage of Amoy’s many years of experience, you’ll definitely want to read the following posts or pass them on to friends.

About Amoy Pitters

If you’re visiting New York City you can book an appointment with Amoy’s Beauty Salon located at 239 East 10th Street. The number is 212-529-5153. If you have family or friends in London (U.K.) you might also want to let them know that she works in London each month for about one week. If you call her New York salon or visit www.amoysbeauty.com (Amoy’s site will launch later this year), you’ll be able to get more information.

Photo of Nia Long source: ABC Big Shot Web site.